Sunday, October 31, 2010

Homestead National Monument


Homestead National Monument is one of those places throughout the west that could have been anywhere on the windswept plains, but by some historic accident happens to be right where it is.  When the 1862 Homestead Act went into effect, the first homestead patent to be filed was on this lovely site for a farm in southern Nebraska.  Over the life of the law, 270 million acres were claimed, including huge areas of the west, which it was designed to get settled.  A display on the way in shows the proportion of each state that was settled via the Homestead Act.


The brand new visitor center houses a wonderful collection of exhibits detailing every aspect of the homesteading period, often with a personal touch of a real person's story.  One exhibit I found interesting was the one about farm equipment, which suggests that farming in the west was only made possible by industrial farm equipment production back east.  It's certainly true today.


A goat-powered treadmill could be hooked up to a variety of devices.  This one was hooked up to a laundry machine.  They could also be hooked up to a butter churn, for example.

There is an eerie familiarity about a lot of stuff in the museum because our own family history has a connection to the story.  At least my great-great grandfather homesteaded in South Dakota.  I'm sure there were others back there somewhere.


The museum highlights the hardships the settlers faced, such as the harsh winters in North Dakota or the plagues of grasshoppers seen above, but also the pride in succeeding by doing it themselves.

Outside, there is an original homestead cabin from the area and a trail that meanders through a prairie through the original homestead property.  There is also an exhibit of a wide variety of types of barbed wire!

There is a great film that pairs the opportunity the Homestead Act brought to Americans with the total disenfranchisement of the American Indians from the same land.  Well worth the 20 minutes, and some familiar faces and places in Montana appear in the film.

The one thing that's missing is a full exploration of the environmental consequences of the conversion of the Great Plains to agriculture.  Yeah, they mentioned the Dust Bowl, but they didn't mention the impact on native plants and animals now struggling to eke out an existence.
Homestead National Monument is free to visit and well worth it!  For more information, visit www.nps.gov/home


Brown V. Board of Education National Historic Site

I always thought Brown V Board sounded like the most boring place to visit.  It is not.  In fact, it is a terrific, modern museum that tells the story of the court cases that ended segregation in schools.  From there, it expands into the larger Civil Rights movement for which Brown V. Board was a significant landmark.  It also deals with the degrees to which the full scope of school desegregation has yet to be fully realized.


More than a museum, the Brown V. Board site is housed in the Monroe School in downtown Topeka, KS, one of four schools once segregated and used only for black children.  I get a little choked up when I think about the history of blacks in America, so this museum was very moving for me.




There are impressive multimedia displays throughout the museum.  In the above photo, the theater features seven screens that coordinate to show multiple angles of a story being told.  It's kind of weird but kind of cool.  Our baby was mesmerized by all the action before she went off like an atom bomb and ruined my conversation with the park staff.

Brown V Board is free to visit and totally worth the stop if you're passing through Topeka.  For more information, visit www.nps.gov/brvb

Friday, October 22, 2010

Nicodemus National Historic Site

Nicodemus is a site with a lot of potential.  A lot of unrealized potential.  But that's the story of Nicodemus, Kansas, too.  In many ways, it is a story that had played out in thousands of towns across the West - a story about people who sought the American dream, found a hardscrabble life instead, and forged a community because they had the will to do it, only to see it slowly erode over time.  The difference between Nicodemus and every other crumbling small town in Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska, South Dakota, and North Dakota today is the one thing that makes it unique: it was settled entirely by black people.  An enclave of their descendants still lives there on the undulating, grassy prairie, under an enormous blue sky.

In 1877, two white land speculators convinced black Americans in the Reconstruction Era South to start a new life in the West.  There, they had the opportunity to achieve the American dream and start life anew, whereas in the Reconstruction South, blacks had been systematically deprived of opportunity, impoverished economically, and denied education.  I did a little research, and, in fact, Nicodemus is the name of a Biblical character to whom Jesus peronally explained the idea of spiritual rebirth (John 3:1-21), so extra points for allegorical settlement naming.

However, as these people arrived at Nicodemus in northwestern Kansas, they discovered to their dismay that it was basically as awful as any place on the Great Plains: sun-baked, treeless, windy.  Take Willianna Hickman's oft-quoted remark upon her arrival, "When we got sight of Nicodemus, the men shouted, 'there is Nicodemus!' Being very sick, I hailed this news with gladness.  I looked with all the eyes I had.  'Where is Nicodemus? I don't see it.'  My husband pointed out various smokes coming out of the ground and said, 'That is Nicodemus.'  The families lived in dugouts ... The scenery was not at all inviting, and I began to cry."




Nicodemus National Historic Site is a highly unusual National Park.  The first thing you'll notice is that the park has no facilities of its own.  The visitor center is basically a few cubicles thrown into the middle of the old Township Hall, just sitting out there in the middle of the community room.  That has been their temporary space since the park was established.  They are thinking about talking about making plans to one day build a visitor center if they can find the land to do it.  The park only owns one other historic building in the community, the old African Methodist Episcopal Church, which is not open to the public (see picture taken through the glass below).  The other buildings are still in private hands, not open to the public, and all deteriorating rapidly.


Nicodemus embodies the conflict within a living community's desire to protect its heritage and the different ways to go about that.  One way is to entrust the preservation of their heritage to the National Park Service, to give up some of their cherished historic buildings all of which are in critical need of stabilization and repair, and to find new ways of connecting their community.  And, to my extreme pro-federal point of view, that is to a certain extent inevitable long-term, as all the young people have long since moved out of Nicodemus and it now is a quiet, retirement community 364 days a year.  But on the other hand, by giving it all up for preservation, they will no doubt lose the strong sense of community that keeps the people and their descendants from staying there and coming back, a community which has always preserved its own heritage.  The Emancipation Celebration, an annual event in Nicodemus which brings descendants and former residents back to town, most closely resembles a town-sized family reunion, which it essentially is.


The third, and most complicated way to go about preserving Nicodemus is some form of integration between the national park and the community.  This is in fact the way they plan to go about it - to find a way to let the community keep its cherished old buildings in use but to keep them open to the public for park tours.  The ranger I talked to said that had been working well with the church at the Martin Luther King, Jr. site, and expressed hope that some compromise would come along that would allow the National Park Service to help the community protect its heritage rather than take ownership of it.


It's going to take time, money, cooperation, good people, and hard work to make Nicodemus National Historic Site flower.  When that happens - and I hope it happens sooner rather than later - the entire place will be a showcase for black history, American history, and the collective strength of home and community.

If you visit Nicodemus National Historic Site, you can visit the temporary museum with some decent exhibits to tell the story, then walk around town and find the historic buildings.  There are five "pillars" of their community: two churches, the township hall, the first hotel, and the school.  As we wandered the streets, often standing right in the middle of them like dumb tourists while taking pictures, we didn't see a soul in the whole town.  I told that to the ranger, who said, "Oh, they know you were here!  Believe me, they know you were here."


Will the community find a way to work with the NPS to preserve this unique place?  Or will they retain a firm grip on their own heritage?  Either choice leaves a painful void.  By giving up the buildings to the NPS, they lose their sense of ownership and probably a chunk of their pride.  But by holding out, even though the community retains its identity, I fear that the buildings will keep deteriorating and they will lose that original part of the town, that tangible link to the past --  to those who came and made a town where there was none, who broke the bonds of slavery and sought the American Dream on the plains of Kansas.

Photos: 
#1.  Township Hall and the Nicodemus NHS "temporary" visitor center.
#2.  Looking through the glass of the African Episcopalian Church, which obviously needs work.
#3.  The Nicodemus, KS water tower
#4.  The Old First Baptist Church.  The front looks nice, but the back wall has been buttressed to keep it from falling down.
#5.  The original school, out of service for over 50 years and with a condemned playground.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Fort Larned is the National Park Getaway this Week

It took months of work to get everything ready.  I completed a thorough makeover of the Fort Larned NHS website amid a major agency-wide web software upgrade (and all the glitches that caused).  It took time to get photos and to write the piece.  Now, after much anticipation, this is our week to shine.

Fort Larned is the featured park on National Park Getaways this week.  Every week one lesser-known park is highlighted with content provided by the park, arranged quite nicely by the Washington Office staff.  They also wrote a nice press release.  Also my photo is on the NPS.gov homepage this week.

It feels good when a plan comes together!

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Fort Larned Candlelight Tour

The Candlight Tour is the event everyone talks about.  It's the one all the seasonal rangers, all the volunteers, and a lot of visitors say is the best.  So I would say I had reasonably high expectations going into the event.

It was a lot of work to get everything ready.  Because of the way my weekend landed, I was actually out of play the two days prior to the event, meaning I got out of a lot of the prep work.

This year, the park switched from kerosene lanterns to LED lanterns not just because they're more efficient but because they're safer, too.  I got to check all of them, change batteries where necessary, then set them out along the tour route as prescribed.  I'll spare you the details because I'm sure it makes for thrilling reading!

The program's theme was "Remembering the Forgotten," and it was about people who died at Fort Larned.  Wagon accidents, freezing to death, fighting in the barracks, getting shot, child birth, sickness, etc.  Each scene depicted a real person.

I played Pvt. Joseph Kuhn, a cavalryman in the 2nd Colorado Cavalry killed by Indians near Pawnee Rock, the landmark on the Santa Fe Trail.  I was stationed with three volunteers by the dugout with a couple of fake horses.  We were way out by ourselves on the farthest corner of the fort, but at least we had a campfire going.  From our vantage point, after the tiny sliver of the moon dropped below the horizon, it was essentially blackness all around. 

This is a rendering of approximately what I could see for the duration of the program.


We talked about how to set the scene before I gave my little talk about Kuhn and sent the tour on to the next destination.  Knowing other stops on the tour were more dramatic, even though I portrayed the only soldier who died in combat, I felt our scene was most useful for setting up the tension that played out in the next scene.  We decided one of the guys would stay with the campfire, two guys would act out tying up their horses while discussing their fears and uncertainties, and then I'd emerge from the shadows and tell them about Kuhn's untimely demise while holding my candle lantern.

"My name is Joseph Kuhn and I was a member of the 2nd Colorado Cavalry, Company H.  In May of 1864, I was on patrol east of Fort Larned near a place called Pawnee Rock when all of a sudden we were attacked by Indians.  My horse got shot out from under me, and I managed to get two shots off -- before they GOT ME.  My partner escaped to Fort Larned and told them what happened.  Lt. Ehle sent out a patrol to punish the attackers, but they didn't find anyone.  To this day we don't know who attacked me.  They sent the ambulance to retrieve my body and then buried me here in the cemetery."

While the light was working, the cenotaph in the cemetery was lit, giving it a spooky glow.  After my spiel, I descended into the oxbow where our fire was going, symbolizing my descent into HELL MUAHAHAH. 

Now that may not sound like a real thrill, but the idea that Indians could and would attack the army, and the unease the other soldiers indicated in front of the crowd helped set the stage for the next scene the tour group came upon.  There, under the darkness of a moonless, starry sky, out of the shadows came Little Heart, a Cheyenne man approaching the sentry post.  In the box, the sentry got increasingly alarmed as the man got closer and closer, shouting "Halt! HALT!"  Then, BOOM, a rifle shot, and the Cheyenne man fell.  Ranger Mike didn't have a hard time selling the frightened sentry, tapping memories of serving in 'Nam, and it was very dramatic.  I snuck out to watch it several times!

The event went extraordinarily smoothly from our standpoint.  A lot of people had very nice compliments for us.  All in a day's work, really.  When a good plan and good people come together, you get good results, and this was certainly a good event for the Fort.  The program is so successful that not enough tickets are available.  Unfortunately, time is limited, it can only be done one night because it relies so heavily on volunteers, and group sizes have to be limited for safety and logistics.  The park almost needs to move to a lottery system rather than straight up reservations.  I'd love to advertise it and say "Come on down!" but the truth is it's nearly impossible to get tickets!

The fun thing about it all was that it was interesting for me to see the fort in a different state.  Being there in the dark with the candles and all the people definitely gave it a surreal quality.  Not to mention I was pretty tired by the end of the night while visiting with friends that have been away for weeks only to appear for this one night then vanish again by morning.  The evening was like my average nightly bad dream: a familiar place and/or familiar people with the twist that something about the situation is abnormal, yet acceptable in the context of the dream.  Now that everything is put away and the post is back to normal, I'm left wondering if it was all a dream!

Sunday, October 3, 2010

"Why did they kill the women and children?"

I was doing living history in the barracks at Fort Larned, visiting with the folks trickling through the Fort on a quiet Saturday afternoon when I got a simple question with a complicated answer.  After I had shown a couple around the room and given them my time-tested barracks interpretive notes about the soldiers, their lifestyle, and their equipment during the Indian Wars, a woman asked at an above-normal volume and with a degree of outrage, "Why did they kill the women and children?"

I was somewhat surprised by the question, and smiled because I knew it would be a challenge to answer.  I told her "It's complicated," and proceeded to give the longest extemporaneous answer I'd ever given.  The answer is multi-faceted and complex.  It's impossible to pin down any one specific answer because it's really a chili pot full of influences that lead to the type of violence seen in the Indian Wars.

Here is an attempt to explain why women and children were killed in the Indian Wars.

The Strategic Level
I can think of three reasons why women and children became targets in the Indian Wars on a broad, strategic level.
1.  The Need to Attack - The overarching goal of the Indian Wars was, for better or for worse, to end Indian peoples' control of the Plains and other areas of the west.  In so doing, the military can only really do two things: deter attack through their mere presence (the threat of violence), or to actually attack.  In some situations, the army was able to defuse potential violence through its presence, as was done by the Army escorting wagon trains at Fort Larned in 1864.  However, so long as Indian peoples resisted through guerilla warfare and raiding, the call for military retribution grew more and more intense from American citizens and politicians, in some cases culminating in military action.  When the regular army wouldn't intervene, state-led volunteer units were raised; these were virtually undisciplined mobs that were indiscriminate in their actions.  Units raised in Kansas and Colorado come to mind.
2.  Total War - Especially after the Civil War, with officers like General Sherman, then the head of the Army, well versed in the strategy of Total War, were accustomed to a style of warfare that allowed infrastructure, not just military personnel, to become targets.  The purpose, of course, was to make continued resistance so horrible and unbearable that they would give up.  The terror stemmed from both the deaths incurred during an attack, but more so from the deprivation of food and shelter.  In order to survive, destitute people had to come in to the Indian Agencies to survive.
3.  Winter Campaigns - The byproduct of total war was the winter campaign championed by General Philip Sheridan.  The winter campaign's purpose was to deprive Indians of supplies, shelter, and food exactly when they depended on it the most, villages became primary targets.  As such, women and children were present and thus subject at least to collateral damage and at most, to murder.

Tactical Reality
Realities on the battlefield made women and children targets, too.  Because Plains Indians engaged in light cavalry tactics on the battlefield, because they knew the land better than the whites, and because they could still claim victory at the end of the day even if they left their opponents holding the battlefield (because taking and holding ground was not their primary objective), they were exceedingly difficult targets for the Army to engage.  The warriors seemed to appear and disappear at will.  Even in situations where the Army was permitted to engage the Indians, it was exceedingly difficult to find them.  This difficulty was a major reason why Custer attacked when he did at Washita in 1868 and at Little Bighorn in 1876; his opponent was so difficult to find, so he had to attack while he knew where they were.  Custer had been unsuccessful in finding anybody to engage in Kansas in 1867 after the situation at Fort Larned unraveled into war.

The other tactical reality was the limited amount of intelligence available to military organizers.  By the time one got close enough to inspect a village, he risked being spotted, in which case, the village probably would not be there by the time the troops arrived.  Attacking headlong into unclear situations became necessary for the Army, and there were consequences: getting in over one's head, killing innocent people, or even attacking the wrong tribe altogether.

Human Ambition
Most of the Army officers were veterans of the Civil War, and not only were they accustomed to Total War, many were ambitious and sought success in their careers.  And what could be better than getting your name in the papers for a smashing, righteous victory?  Not only did this recognition help them in their careers, many of the officers had political ambitions.  Generals Grant, McClellan, and Hancock all ran for President.  There is reason to believe Custer was thinking about running at the time of the Little Bighorn campaign. 

Human Fallibility
It's also true that some people are just evil, pure and simple.  They would take any opportunity to kill another person and mutilate the body just for their own amusement.  This happened at Sand Creek, and I'm sure it played a part in other battles as well.  Nobody told the volunteers at Sand Creek to cut off a woman's breast and wear it as a hat, or a man's scrotum and use it as a tobacco pouch; the people who did these things clearly had issues that took them far beyond their duties as soldiers.  Frustration, bias, and revenge must also have played a role, for there were nearly constant murders, abductions, and attacks that stemmed from the Indian side as well as the white.  Retribution for one attack tended to escalate violence as revenge killings created a feedback loop that amplified over time.  There is also a place for ignorance, simply not knowing exactly who they were fighting against because of the pressure to do something and the unavailability of useful reconnaissance.

So while there are many factors at play, the short answer is that the Army, when ordered to attack, had to attack when they had the opportunity, and women and children happened to be present many times when those opportunities arose.  That, coupled with indifference or malice on the part of the army personnel, whether organized or on an individual scale, made women and children targets.

There is also the possibility that soldiers either did not or could not make a distinction between men and women in the heat of combat.


At this point, the visitor asked, "But wouldn't attacking helpless people like children and the elderly just make them want to fight more?"

Yes it would!  However, the reasons why, and why that didn't really matter in the long run, are again complicated, and they're the other part of the equation.


Tribal Organization and Polarization
As is the case in nomadic hunter-gatherer groups throughout history, the societies are roughly egalitarian.  Although chiefs are respected by many, their power is limited to those who choose to follow them.  This is possible in a hunter-gatherer society because everyone has roughly equal access to resources if he or she is willing to go and get them.  Agrarian societies, where stockpiling food creates an imbalance in wealth, tend toward a pyramid-shaped society with identifiable classes; thus, feudalism, monarchy, despotism, and so on.  So when a Plains Indian decided he or she didn't like the way one chief was handling business, they could choose to follow another.  While this might be a natural progression of a society over time to grow and divide, this polarization within Plains Indian societies in this historical moment proved consequential. 

While some people preferred a peaceful solution and were willing to go into the Indian Agencies and receive the annuities offered to them by the Government in exchange for treaty agreements designed mainly to get them out of the way of the advancing white society, others rejected that kind of subservience, and chose independence.  Within the Cheyenne, specifically, chiefs like Black Kettle advocated a peaceful solution early; realizing that lasting independence was not possible, he was eager to get the best deal for his people to live peacefully.  The Cheyenne were well known for their friendliness in the early days.  However, the warrior faction of the tribe, the Dog Soldiers, was more inclined toward independence.  Following the unprovoked massacre at Sand Creek, the Dog Soldiers gained more clout in the years that followed.

The tension pulling the Cheyenne apart in the 1860s was not unique.  It had happened to virtually every tribe faced with the same dire situation.  As one example, precisely the same thing had happened with the Sauk and Fox tribes when they were moved onto their reservation in Iowa; Keokuk wanted to maintain peace and Black Hawk wanted to wage war.  The result of war was that both groups were punished together.  The same happened to the Cheyenne.

The Warrior Tradition and its Consequences
Plains Indian culture placed value in warrior skills.  Thus, there was a culturally-ingrained tradition of a warrior seeking honor and distinction.  A young man was compelled to show his courage, bravery, and skill through counting coup in a variety of ways: stealing horses, touching an enemy in battle, etc.  Raiding wagons on the Santa Fe Trail and stealing goods was one manifestation of this impetus.  While the tradition might come across as playful youth looking for a good time, or "boys will be boys," its darker aspects should not be overlooked.

Certain actions, whether part of an overarching strategy of harassment or else actions perpetrated by factions or individuals, were more serious.  These acts of bravery, however, were frowned upon by those affected by them, and they are largely responsible for the outcry for military proteciton by white society.  Particularly, white people were routinely murdered, raped, abducted, mutilated, and forced into slavery by Indians.  Understandably, this created a culture of fear and anger against the Indians that manifested itself in both organized and individual "revenge" of one sort or another.

Government Policy
The U.S. government, meanwhile, was conflicted in its policies towards Indians.  On the one hand, people were shouting for military protection and action against "hostile" Indians.  On the other hand, peace was much less expensive for the government, even at the cost of providing annuities for thousands of people every year.  Fort Larned, as an Indian Agency site and as a site for distribution of annuities in the Medicine Lodge Treaty was part of this solution.  The government see-sawed between the two policies, emphasizing one, then the other through the Indian Wars.  Grant in particular was influenced by those who pursued the peace agenda through the Office of Indian Affairs, but eventually he turned to the military to end lingering conflicts. 

This two-pronged strategy allowed the U.S. Government to emphasize either the carrot or the stick, as necessary.  "Come in and be peaceful and get gifts, or, if you choose violence, we will punish you."  When the Dog Soldiers continued violence in 1868, it culminated in the attack at Washita in November, 1868.  In that battle, it was not the Dog Soldiers whom Custer attacked, but the peaceful village of Black Kettle's followers.  Washita happened because of all of the above reasons on strategic, tactical, and personal levels, and I think it's fair to say that many battles throughout the Indian Wars that were begun in a premeditated fashion by the Army were similar in their multi-faceted reasoning.

Unsustainable War
While it is arguable that the military tended to increase violence with any action they took other than simply deterring attack, the true cause for the end of fighting was the utter destitution of the tribes opposing the U.S. Government.  Deprived of food with the near-exctinction of the bison, elements of tribes that fought for independence ultimately could not sustain their war effort.  The same had recently been true for the Confederates a decade prior.  While the unavailability of food probably took the tribes 99% of the way to the brink, the military, through continued pressure, helped push them over the edge.  In that sense, tribal resistance to U.S. dominion throughout the Indian Wars was really just a last, desperate, and ineffective gasp of the tribes to protect their autonomy, doomed to fail from the outset.

Even in the face of smashing victories like Little Bighorn, overall victory was impossible.  The nomadic way of life dictated that the tribe had to move to support themselves and, just as importantly, their horses.  The thousands of people gathered at the combined village at Little Bighorn were compelled to break up in order to have pastures for their horses, and thus, gave up their greatest strength: the sheer size of their village.  The Army, capable of producing food elsewhere and ship it to where it was needed, did not have such problems, allowing it to move forces as needed, when needed.  Additionally, there was the calculus of populations and attrition: army forces were replaceable and effectively numberless in the long term, warriors were not replaceable in the short term.

But if they had not resisted at all, would Plains Indians have been better off?  Would it have spared the lives of some women and children?  A historian isn't allowed to answer a question like this, so I leave it up to you to answer that for yourself.